Trapped in Perpangion all night, a town close to the border of Spain, we were forced to sleep on the streets for the third time. The night was frightening and cold. Thoth seemed to have no hope left. We arrived safely in Barcelona the next day. Vincente welcomed us into his house with open arms, fed us, and we slept until evening. The next day we were lucky to be able to perform in our favorite spot, Casas, a shoe store with amazing acoustics. We were fed by some friends and then took the night train to Malaga. The chairs were so uncomfortable we were forced to camp out on the floor to get some shut eye. Once in Malaga, we were forced to pay 8 euros for the short trip to Bobadillo. We spent 5 hours in the train station at Bobadillo and Thoth played. The trains took all day to get us to Algeceres where we spent a rainy night in a cheap hotel. The ferry to Africa the next day was disturbing to me because of the amount of people who got sick. In Algeceres we were approached by a tour guide who was very pushy. He said the train station would be closed so we should hang around for a while. He tried to lead us to a place to leave our bags but I felt uncomfortable so I asked him to go. We took a taxi and the station was not closed so we bought tickets for a night train to Marrakech. We played all day in the sation because the acoustics were so lovely. That night on the train Thoth and I had an inspiring talk.
ATHENS, GREECE
We arrived in Athens on Monday afternoon and were amazed how ugly it was. I saw a hotel close to the train station. I went to look but they charged 45 euros a night. We dragged our suitcases up a steep hill looking for other lodging but couldn’t find anything less then that so we went back. The lady at the desk was very kind and said she would do a discount for us if we stayed 7 days. We went searching for a place to play and found several resonant walkways on a pedestrian street. We did well so we decided to stay the week. We found a beautiful stage at the Acroplis I enjoyed playing at. It has a mythic feeling and people were drawn there by our voices. The food was horrible but inexpensive. During the last two days of our stay we were invited to people’s houses. The first was a free thinking American woman and her Greek husband. They treated us to some Greek apatizers and let their pet pigion sit on my shoulder. They lightened up the darkness of the city for us. The next day a woman approached us during prayformance and invited us to her house for tea. The house had dark energy and I became afraid. We felt she might be a witch. She asked us to read tarot for her and she was very distressed when the cards came up badly. I felt she must be in debt. She asked to do the reading again and it came out very good.
We survived a week in the dreary city, paid our rent, and took the long trip back to Barcelona.
BRINDISI, ITALY
We took the trains all day and night on Thursday through Italy and arrived in Brindisi at 8 am. We dragged our bags to the ferry but we couldn’t get tickets until 4 pm. We walked around town looking for bread. I found a bakery and left the suitcases with Thoth on a bench. When I came back he had finished playing and people were giving him money. We decided to stay for the weekend. An energetic woman brought us sweets from the bakery and pointed us in the direction of a hotel. Our room was homey and had a huge bed for only 30 euros a night. We prayformed both Friday and Saturday.
On Saturday morning we sat on a bench for 3 hours and played. That was hard. I don’t like playing for money. I’m used to prayforming for 3 hours but I do that for the joy of singing, not for money. We took a break and went out again in the evening. I was not in the mood at first but the prayformance ended up being brilliant. We set up in an alley off the main pedestrian street and many people gathered even before we started. There were many interesting people to sing to. All of the interactions energized us to dance and sing as we have not done for a long time. A group of young kids gathered around us and asked us questions in Italian. They were very pushy and one tried to pick up my spirit catcher without asking. That annoyed me. The older of the bunch poked his head out and asked “Are you a witch?”. I was so angry I was trembling while Thoth sang “Mama”. Then I exploded for the seven rhythm. People were laughing at him. We had a lovely italian dinner on the money we made.
On Sunday we packed our bags and headed to the ferry. There were so many people on the street that we almost decided to stay another night but we couldn’t refund our tickets. After we took off, Thoth wandered to the upper deck with his violin. I went up and found him playing for two boys from Oregon. I walked over to look at the water lapping against the ship when I heard him call “Young lady.” I walked over and he began playing the Scottish Song. People gathered around us to listen. After bumping along on the ocean for several hours I was sea sick but Thoth wasn’t affected. He took out his violin again and strung on his bells and played in the middle of the staircase to the gawking stares of the passengers. Everyone clapped and hooted to the sounds of his rhythms. He wore all black and my little black hat that makes him look Russian. We walked back to our seats but everyone was gathered around us so we sang the Scottish Song again. Thoth sat down, exhausted as I changed into my bells, pink skirt and headdress. I took out my violin and played my solo then we performed a few scenes together. The Tango was very hot and exciting.
NICE, FRANCE
4.1.2010
Thoth and I had a lovely last few days in Barcelona playing music fearlessly in the streets, despite the cops. Now it is time to move on. We said good bye to the friends and took the local trains all day to Nice, France on the way to Greece. The scenery was breathtaking and Thoth read me The Box Lady from a book of short stories he wrote called Ruby and the Tree House. We’re excited but very tired. We’ll play tomorrow and see how Nice treats. I hope nicely!
We had a difficult time in Nice. Thoth almost said we we were going to turn around and go home. People thought we were homeless. There was rain all day when we went out to play on Tuesday but we met Alex and David, an English speaking homeless couple. They were helpful and told us of better places to play. Wednesday was better because we had a full prayformance in a safe space and sold CD’s. I don’t like the snobby French very much. I felt looked down upon.
TARRAGONA, SPAIN
11.12.2009
We got our instruments back on Wednesday for 188 euros a piece. We went to Tarrgona yesterday, which is an hour away from here by train, to do a walkabout. We were on edge about the police so it took me a while to get into it. I ended up having fun but we ended up getting stuck, again. The last train leaving for Barcelona was express and we had regional tickets so the conductor wouldn’t let us on. People are so uncaring. We found a good place to eat and stayed until 2 am, trying to staying out of the cold. We walked around the city until the train station opened again at 4:30 am. It was cold, but not at chilly as Paris. Our train left at 5:52 and we went to sleep at 7:30 and slept until 1:30 pm. We got dressed up this afternoon and had a nice walk to the Mercat. I had a lemon and pineapple smoothie and we had fruit salad. A couple from Finland took our pictures and invited us to stay with them when it gets warmer. That is if we survive.
Thoth said I’m his anchor because nothing phases me and I’m always excited.
ARRESTED AGAIN
The day after we got settled at Vicente’s we did another walk about. We thought that if we were mobile the police wouldn’t bother us. We performed in our usual order, Anya in a certain spot and then started Romanza heading towards the Ramblas. People watching us had no idea what to do when they see two people singing and dancing through the streets playing violins.
What happened next was unbelievable.
Once we got to close to the Rambla and we singing our hearts out, the police saw us. We tried to run away singing but they ran after us. They took us to the police station and robbed us of our instruments and bells, saying we’d have to pay to get them back. What has the world come to? How dare they do this? How can they do this? Now we have to wait a week to get our instruments back and probably pay 200 euros A PIECE to get them back! We’re trapped in Barcelona with no way to make money. We need help!
TEARS, SINGING and HOPE
29.11.2009
This morning we cried in bed for a long time. Everything is too hard and Thoth is suffering too much. We went out for a walk and when we came back he took out his violin and played for a long time. Whenever he plays I stop everything I’m doing to listen. He is such a brilliant musician. He deserves so much. I am as loving to him as possible but he constantly feels rotten and there is nothing I can do. After playing he said we were going to go out to play, so we got our things together and headed out. We randomly found a covered space in a shoe store that had really good acoustics. Thoth took out his violin and simply began toning Anya and I joined him. No movement, no dancing, just our voices. Slowly, people gathered to listen in respectful silence. They tossed money in Thoth’s case and a few talked to us and told us how moved they were by our music. We played for about 45 minutes and did very well. A woman gave us a tour of other places to play around a beautiful church. A guitarist who knew Thoth when he came to Barcelona years ago saw him and said “THOTH?” in surprise. We went back to the hotel to change into something a little more romantic and went back to the shoe store to play. A man came on a motorcycle to close up the store with a gate but we stood in front it and played for another 45 minutes. Many people came and listened and we made good money, enough to pay for dinner and then some. Once we finished, the police came again saying people in the apartments were complaining about the noise. We had a wonderful dinner and our waiter was so cute and he loved me.
BARCELONA, SPAIN
28.11.2009
We got to Barcelona this morning at 8. We bought our suitcases to the hotel and wandered the warf while waiting for our room to be prepared. We imagined going to the cruise ships with our instruments and see if they’d give us a job. We got into our hotel and situated ourselves and took a shower for the first time in 2 days. We got dressed and went to The Ramblas to play but were stopped by the police before we even started. It was very disturbing because I began wondering how we’d make money. We found another spot but it was a very upsetting experience because it felt like a sideshow act and people were walking over us and not paying attention. We gathered a crowd but the whole experience felt icky.
WALKABOUT and HOSPITALITY
1.12.2009
Last night and this morning was extremely disturbing and frightening. I was afraid for Thoth. He was behaving strangely because he was so upset. We went out to play at the church later in the day. It was a nice space and we gathered a crowd but rarely anyone gave money. Vicente, the guitarist who recognized Thoth the night before, saw us again and invited us to come to his apartment later. The police appeared when we were taking a break and said they would of taken our instruments if they saw us playing! Thoth and I sat and talked for a bit and then went into a little place that had nice acoustics and played for a long time. I finally learned how to hold a rhythm. I simply plucked my G string and sang with it. My phrases changed completely. Thoth was very impressed. That night we did a wonderful walk about. I sang to and interacted with everyone. I was very confidant. Afterwards, we stopped at Vicente’s apartment and he fed us and invited us to stay with him! Thoth was in a better mood and was very affectionate to me, which I always enjoy.
SINGING and STARVING
6.12.2009
On our walk today, we passed some musicians playing in a resonant alley of a church. Two hang players (a steel pan type instrument), a guitarist who also played bells, and a saxophonist. I sat on the ground to listen to them while Thoth continued walking . One of the musicians that had met Thoth and me a few days earlier motioned for me to sing with them, so I did. There was a huge crowd. I felt good to sing again. Magic. Thoth won’t eat today and I don’t really know what to do. He feels bad but he needs to eat. I can’t watch him starve to death.